THREADS & VOICES, Behind the Indian Textile Tradition, edited by Laila Tyabji, released by Marg Publications gives glimpses of craftspeople and crafts in transition with emphasis on contemporary pieces and practice, contrasted with old heirlooms and traditions. It is an interpretation of the beauty, range and variety of the Indian textile tradition and also the learning process that went into the making of both craftspeople and interventionary agencies; the cultural importance to the craftspeople of the motifs and designs they use; how designs and products have changed with changing markets and lifestyles, how far technology has changed crafts and working conditions; and the conflict in craft today between economics, tradition, fashion, and creativity. The emphasis is on contemporary pieces and practice, contrasted with old heirlooms and traditions. Also analysed are the sociological and economic causes of the demise of certain traditions, such as the glowing, rich Phulkaris of the Punjab. Five of the chapters are about women embroiderers, working in traditions that are centuries old, but new to the marketplace and urban lifestyles. One of the articles, on Pabi Bai, is a moving account of the rites of passage of Rabari women who, empowered through their embroidery, have become their own designers and entrepreneurs - in the process discovering their voice and world view. Here, craft has truly been a catalyst - for personal growth and social and economic change. In turn this has created new conflicts and challenges. Women who worked to their own rhythms and creative impulses now craft to tunes others play. Most of them no longer embroider for their own use, and cultural influences from the outside world have infiltrated their aesthetic and homes. 

The articles describe textiles and skills still used by people for themselves, rather than the courtly textiles of yesteryear. The focus has shifted from museum antiques and master crafts persons to embroideries and weaves made in villages today - as part of both income and social practice. The focus is the person in relation to the textile - the conflict (positive and negative) between individual creativity and market forces, and how to sensitively meld contemporary design with tradition. 

Issues that emerge in these articles are the learning process that went into the making of both craftspeople and interventionary agencies; the cultural importance to the craftspeople of the motifs and designs they use; how designs and products have changed with changing markets and lifestyles, how far technology has changed crafts and working conditions; and the conflict in craft today between economics, tradition, fashion, and creativity. 

In the new millennium, India is poised between past and future, tradition and technology; and village haats are being supplanted by shopping malls. Nevertheless, craft still maintains its place, finding new avenues and opportunities. Threads & Voices brings glimpses of craftspeople and crafts in transition. 

Editor and contributors 

Laila Tyabji is a freelance designer, writer, and founder member and Chairperson of Dastkar, a Society for Crafts & Craftspeople, established in 1981. Helping craftspeople, especially women, learn to use their inherent skills as a means of employment, earning and independence is the crux of the DASTKAR programme. Laila's own speciality is textile-based crafts, especially embroidery and appliqué, using the traditional craft skill and design tradition as a base for products of contemporary usage and appeal. 

JUDY FRATER is an anthropologist and textile specialist. Having done her Master's degree in Anthropology at the University of Minnesota and in Museum Studies at the University of Washington, she joined the Textile Museum in Washington DC as Assistant and then Associate Curator in 1989. Frater has conducted 36 years of fieldwork on traditional textiles of India, specialising in the embroideries of Kutch. A recipient of Fulbright and Ford Foundation grants, she has also written an award-winning book on Rabari embroidery, Threads of Identity. In 1993, she helped establish Kala Raksha, a grassroots organisation focused on holistic, sustainable development for artisans of Kutch. Currently, Kala Raksha is establishing a pioneering design school for artisans in Kutch. 

The contributors list includes Paola Manfredi, Sunny and Meeta, Jasleen Dhamija , Uzramma, Annapurna M, Jenny Housego, Tara Gandhi Bhattacharjee, Lakshmi Narayan, Maianna Von Hippel, and Skye Morrison. 

MARG (www.marg-art.org), since 1946, is India's premier publisher of books and magazines on the art and history of India and its neighbouring countries. It is a division of the National Centre for the Performing Arts (NCPA), a public charitable trust formed principally to promote a better understanding and appreciation of India's rich cultural heritage.