NITRA has brought out some booklets on important issues like threads, apparel manufacturing, denim and processing. 

Sewing of Knits 

Knit fabrics,unlike wovens, are elastic in nature. Therefore, proper care has to be taken while stitching knits. The booklet, Sewing of Knits describes the problems that are encountered during sewing of knits and methods to overcome these problems. The following are the contents of the booklet : 

• Factors to be considered while stitching knits. 

• Recommended threads for knits. 

• Amount of thread storage in seam. 

• Stitch balance. 

• Sewing machine settings. 

This booklet has been prepared jointly by Rajendra Kumar Gaur, Neha Sharma and Shweta Saxena. 

Glass Threads 

Garment/articles, which are meant for high temperature applications are stitched with sewing threads made from glass filaments. Sewability of these threads is enhanced by coating with polytetrafluoroethylene. This booklet describes: 

• Glass fibre - production. 

• E glass and S glass. 

• Characteristics of glass fibre and glass threads. 

• Glass textile - precautions. 

This booklet is prepared by Rajendra Kumar Gaur. 

Sewing Needles 

The sewing needle plays and important role in making finished articles durable, pleasing and attractive. Poor needle selection mar the seam appearance, seams durability and productivity of the stitching process. In addition, it also damages fabric and threads. Poor quality/size/style of the sewing needle are some of the major causes for skipped stitches and severe threads breakage during sewing Therefore, it is necessary to know the various aspects of sewing needles, which are described in this booklet. 

The contents are: 

• Anatomy of machine needle. 

• Needle manufacturing. 

• Characteristics of needle and its numbering systems. 

• Types of needles. 

• Classification of round point and cutting point of needle. 

• Designation system of needles. 

• Method to replace needle in a lockstitch machine. 

• Position and description of eccentric points of needle. 

This booklet has been prepared jointly by Rajendra Kumar Gaur, Vikas Sharma, Shweta Saxena and Neha Sharma. 

Denim Washing 

Denim, a fabric for all, has unique faded look with soft and smooth feel. The variations in its look and feel can be achieved by subjecting it to different kinds of washes. This booklet provides basic information on indigo, the dye used for denim, the variations in different types of washes like stone wash, acid wash and enzyme wash. This booklet also describes 38 uncommon terms used in the denim washing. 

This booklet has been prepared jointly by Dr M S Parmar and Rajendra Kumar Gaur. 

Quality Assurance in Apparel Manufacturing 

Quality assurance in apparel manufacturing is such a vast area that it covers all aspects of quality, process and product. Quality assurance means providing confidence to customer right from procurement of raw material to the delivery of finished product. This booklet cover important aspects of quality assurance in apparel manufacturing and the contents are: 

• Quality assurance in apparel manufacturing. 

• Quality assurance for knits. 

• Clothing construction standards. 

• Fabric inspection system. 

• Acceptable quality level. 

• Types of defects (yarn, fabric and seams). 

• Quality and its cost. 

• Apparel performance standards. 

• Quality improvement tools. 

• IS/BS/ISO/ASTM standards on apparel manufacturing. 

This booklet has been prepared jointly by Rajendra Kumar Gaur, Neha Sharma and Shweta Saxena. 

Oeko-Tex Standards 

Oeko-Tex Standards focus on "Safety" all along the textile chain. These standard are used worldwide as common safety standard for textile products/production sites. This TABLet Provides details on types Oeko-Tex Standard, their implementation, validity, costs involved, benefits and many othere aspects. The contents are: 

• Need for international Standard on safety all along the textile chain, Birth of Oeko-Tex Standard. 

• Assurance of Oeko-Tex Standard 100, Harmful substances. 

• Permissible/allowable level of harmful substances under Oeko-Tex Standard 100. 

• Message and recognition of a genuine of Oeko-Tex Standard 100 Mark/level. 

• Concept adopted for development of the Oeko-Tex Standard. 

• Test criteria in Oeko-Tex Standard, Products classes. 

• Types of Oeko-Tex Standards. 

• Oeko-Tex Standard 100. 

• Product specific requirements. 

• Oeko-Tex Standard 1000,Oeko-Tex Standard100 plus. 

• Labelling of production sites, Labelling of products. 

• Oeko-Tex Standard 200. 

• Relevant difference between Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 and ISO 14001. 

• Steps involved in Oeko-Tex Standard certification. 

• Policing system for Oeko-Tex certification. 

• Lated changes to the Oeko-Tex standard 100. 

• Institutes for Testing in the field to Textile Ecology. 

This booklet has been prepared jointly by Rajendra Kumar Gaur and Dr C C Giri.