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W&K Criss-Cross | September 2014

JL 65/1 B Fashion strikes a new chord

The lace shown is full of surprises. At first glance, it appears opulent and hand-made but, on closer inspection, it has a filigree look, especially in the filled-in pattern areas. The style of this baroque design is reminiscent of Flanders lace. A feature of this construction, which is also known as dentelle de binche, is its open, coarse ground combined with finely engraved loopnet structures filling in the flowers and leaves with hatched effects. The design is based on a combination of rustic nets and delicate mesh costructions, matt and shiny areas, and opaque and transparent effect - all overlaid with a network of bourdon cord, which runs over the design and characterises the look. The new JL 65/1 B Fashion machine was used to produce this attractive outerwear fabric. The Jacquardtronic® Lace machine for this particular application is available in gauges E 18 and E 24 and a working width of 132ö + 2ö extension for the stenter frame. The technical features of this machine were adapted to enable it to process coarse bourdon cord without any problems. Non-stretch bourdon cord in counts of up to dtex 2,450 was used during the tests carried out at KARL MAYER. Stretch bourdon cord with a maximum count of dtex 3,250 could even be used, since the yarn cross-section narrows as a result of the processing tension. KARL MAYERs product developers were assisted by Moulinage du Plouy during the knitting tests.

This French yarn manufacturer provided the bourdon cord, which was made from 100 per cent non-stretch polyamide. The stretch version combines a core of 16 per cent elastane with a sheath of 84 per cent polyamide. The elastane for the stretch ground was produced by INVISTA. In addition to Lycra« and polyamide, every type of commercially available synthetic fibre can be processed on the JL 65/1 B Fashion.

For further information:

KARL MAYER Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH
Brnhlstra¯e 25
63179 Obertshausen
Ulrike Schlenker
Tel: 06104/402-274
Fax: 06104/402-73-274
Email: uschlenker@karlmayer.de

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