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Special Feature | June 2017

Santoni & Lenzing join hands for seamless denim

The new project concerns the knitting of an innovative denim double-face quilted fabric produced by Santoni’s double jersey circular knitting machine, the Mec-mor CMP, and Lenzing’s Tencel fibre.

Santoni, a leading Italian manufacturer of a wide range of circular knitting machines, is co-operating with Lenzing Fibres, a producer of Tencel branded fibre, in a new denim project.

The previous co-operation with Lenzing focused on the knitting of a new one-piece denim garment that would fit the modern rapidly evolving lifestyle. “This just-in- time semi-finished garment was tailored for the ever fast-changing fashion world. The idea of innovative knit denim as a contrast to the traditional woven denim fabric highlights the product concept as it combines denim’s soul with sportswear’s athleisure performance features,” the company explains.

The new project concerns the knitting of an innovative denim double-face quilted fabric produced by Santoni’s double jersey circular knitting machine, the Mec-mor CMP, and Lenzing’s Tencel fibre. The Mec-Mor CMP, with open variable panel (Variatex technology) is a circular knitted garment length machine complete with rib border separation. With unique finished looks, one single machine can produce all sizes without wastages, thanks to the variable width of the fabric panels that allows the exact number of working needles to be selected for the required size of product. The totally reversible quilted jacket knitted on the Mec-Mor machine is seamless. The border is not sewn as it is integrated into the fabric panel, as well as incorporating the pockets. It is a double-faced jacket that can have various patterns and logos directly knitted into it by the machine. These designs have a very high resolution, thanks to the fine inherent GG 20 characteristics.

Tencel is the sustainable lyocell fibre derived from wood pulp. According to the manufacturer, only wood from certified or controlled sources is used to make Tencel using a closed loop production system. This fibre production process is eco-friendly and has received numerous certifications and awards including the European Award for the Environment and Oeko-Tex.

The new totally-reversible seamless denim quilted jacket produced on the Santoni machine aims to provide greater comfort due to its dedicated areas of increased fit and well-being as determined by the use of embedded indigo Tencel fibre and elastomers to give higher elasticity and flexibility. The multi-layered seamless knitted panel consists of three layers of different yarns with a reverse use. The resulting quilting effect is obtained directly on the machine by specific stitches that hold the two layers of fabric, together this produces a thickness in the fabric, so creating a quilting effect which increases the profile of the relief when compared to the rest of the fabric, giving a unique change in its texture.

Extra decorative patterns may be added to the surface to create unlimited 3D technical effects and design. Separate reinforced points can be inserted as well. Each side of the panel can be the front layer, allowing for either an active or a smart-classical denim jean look.

Santoni was founded in 1919 as the first Italian socks machine manufacturer. In 1988, the company was acquired by the prestigious Lonati Group, world leader in the production of socks and pantyhose machines. Since then the company has become synonymous with the ‘seamless’ phenomenon, becoming itself the world leader in the production of electronic knitting machines for garments without seams.

Today, Santoni meets 97 per cent of the worldwide demand for seamless machines, which are used in various sectors of the garment industry, including underwear, sportswear, beachwear, outerwear and medical garments.

A structure strongly oriented to customer needs and continuous technological innovation makes LONATI SpA, a leader in the field of circular knitting machines for hosiery. With a management capable to anticipate market trends and an ongoing professional updating LONATI SpA is able to get a partnership with its customers.

The company is based on an area of 80,000 sq m of which 24,500 are occupied by buildings. It is located in the San Polo area in the Italian city of Brescia.

Lonati produces approximately 10,000-11,000 hosiery machines each year and has 50 models in production. Lonati exports 60 per cent of its machines to all corners of the world. Particular attention is paid to emerging markets such as China and Turkey although, of course, the traditional outlets of North and South America, Europe and parts of Africa are not neglected.

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