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W&K Criss-Cross | April 2016

Simple elegance accentuates flamboyance

Fantastic at second glance – a warp-knitted fabric patterned with a high/low design in the Gothic style, produced on an HKS 4-M EL.

Classically cut and simply white, the dress shown draws the attention to its wearer first of all, but then reveals all its inherent extravagance at second glance. These exceptional characteristics are a feature of the textile.

The stretch warp-knitted fabric has an oval, Gothic design, and the scalloped shapes have a distinct, three-dimensional appearance. The interconnected, adjacent arrangement of the waves and the pronounced 3D effects are produced by the clever patterning technology and a specific drawing-in arrangement on the HKS 4-M EL. Whereas the fully threaded ground guide bar, GB 2, works a plain lapping for the ground, GB 3 and GB 4 process elastane in a block-wise arrangement from a beam. The yarns are laid from the two ground guide bars in wavy lines running against each other – basically in a tricot lapping, which is shogged step-wise by means of pilgrim steps. The elastane is used double at the intersecting points between the waves. This produces zones with a high stretch having a three-dimensional look. Flat, elastane-free zones, which are highly transparent, are located in-between.

This attractive high/low design was developed by KARL MAYER using the Texion ProCad warpknit software. It was produced by one of this machine manufacturer’s customers. This European textile producer processed elastane having a count of dtex 78 and polyamide 6.6 of dtex 44 f 34 on an HKS 4-M EL in a gauge of E32. The EL facility is needed to work the long shog movements of the ground guide bars of over 1” and the pattern repeat length of 474 courses.

The HKS 4-M EL is a new, innovative machine for efficiently processing even small runs and for producing patterns flexibly. It was presented to the public for the first time at ITMA 2015 in Milan in a gauge of E 28.

For further information: www.karlmayer.com

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